Days 38 and 39: Lencois - Best Pousada ever, waterfalls and swimming holes

We arrived in Lencois (a small former diamond mining town in the Bahian mountains) at 530 AM and we quite groggy.  Luckily, many travelers do the same thing so all the pousadas in town let you check into a room and shower and eat breakfast and charge you only for the meal.  We had decided to stay at Pousada dos Duendes, primarily because the LP told us the proprietor was English, very knowledgeable about the nearby National Park and her name was Olivia Taylor.  Clearly a good sign when the owner´s name is Olivia.

 

Olivia´s pousada is fantastic.  It is on the outskirts of town, a quiet place with hammocks and a chess board in the courtyard that is about 10 feet by 10 feet in size.  We have had a great time talking with the other guests, we seem to have found the perfect place, where everyone is cool and in their late 20s.  We´ve shied away from hostels because we´re kind of tired of talking to cocky 20 year olds from Australia and Minnesota who, like, totally party all night at the clubs.  Not that we didn´t do the same thing, but we´re not doing that now.  Here we´ve met Adam and Emily, a couple from Sweden, who, among other things, are totally addicted to Lost (Emily confided in us last night that their first task upon returning to Sweden will be to download the new season). 

 

Furthermore, Olivia (the owner) is very knowledgeable about all the trips one can take in this National Park.  While hiring a guide is pretty much required (no trails are marked) and, as Brian (guest from Dublin who just completed a 3-day trek) told us, "There are many trails, but there is only one way.  You need the guides to show you the way."  A bit zen-like, and a little annoying to have to hire a guide, but its part of supporting this town which is trying to make the transition from the extractive industry of diamond mining to a more tranqi (tranquillo) eco-tourism economy.

 

That said, we have hiked for two days and have almost gotten away without hiring a guide. Yesterday we tried to hike to a natural water slide. The rivers pour off the rocks here in a series of waterfalls and rapids and the water slide is a place where you can slide on the rocks in the river.  We did not follow the correct trail, but due to our fatigue (remember we took an overnight bus) and our dehydration, we never found the water slide.  Undaunted, we left the following day to find a cave and a few more waterfalls and swimming pools.  We were sure we could find at least the water slide without a guide but were not so sure we could find the cave.  On our searches for the cave we ran into Cesar two times.  Cesar was about 17 years old, wearing yellow swim trunks, flip flops and a white shirt printed on it that said "Guide".  The first time we ran into him he told us he´d take us to the cave, the waterfall and the swimming hole for only 20 reals.  He also told us that the walk was very dangerous (peligrosso) and we needed a guide.  This is what we think he told us, he speaks only Portuguese.  Our thoughts were, hmmm, clearly this hike isn´t dangerous.  First of all, we could see the pools from where we were standing and knew walking to them should be easy.  Secondly, Adam and Emily had done the same hike the day before and told us it was easy.  Third, Cesar was wearing flip flops, how peligrosso could it be???  As we walked away, Cesar said, "quinze reals..."

 

However, we were stubborn, determined to find the cave the LP told us we couldn´t find without a guide.  So, on the second time we ran into Cesar we said "quinze (15) reals?".  He said "sim (yes)" and off we were, to the cave, the waterfall and the swimming hole.  We never would have found the cave (it was not impressive) and would have found the waterfall, but not the swimming hole, so, in the end, it was worth it.  We swam in the clear water beneath the waterfall, refreshed ourselves in the swimming hole and returned to our pousada, excited to spend another night with our new temporary friends.

 

Tomorrow we start a two day trek into the jungle (with a guide) to see the highest waterfall in Brazil (400 meters, supposedly), among other things. We will update when we return.

 

Quiz time!

 

True or false: Olivia is more homesick than Chris.

 

Multiple choice: The "American Food" Chris and Olivia miss most is:

A. Pizza

B. Burritos

C. Pad Thai

D. Both B and C

E. None of the above

 

Hint: This is not a trick question.